The Tudor Brand Story

With a long-standing history of precision and a determination to innovate and push the boundaries, it’s little wonder that Tudor has cemented itself as a leading name in luxury watchmaking. Discover the Tudor brand story here.

“For some years now, I have been considering the idea of making a watch that our agents could sell at a more modest price than our Rolex watches, and yet one that would attain the standard of dependability for which Rolex is famous. I decided to form a separate company, with the object of making and marketing this new watch. It is called the TUDOR watch company.” H. Wilsdorf

And, so it was that in 1926 Hans Wilsdorf, the founder and mastermind behind world-famous watch brand Rolex, had the Tudor watch company name registered. With a long-standing history of precision and a determination to innovate and push the boundaries, it’s little wonder that Tudor has cemented itself as a leading name in luxury watchmaking. With its centenary in sight, we’ll reflect on Tudor’s impressive history, from some of its early rare timepieces which were emblazoned with both the Tudor and Rolex name, through to the iconic Black Bay models which are so highly prized and sought after today.

The Early Years

Utilising the experience, innovation and expertise of Rolex, Tudor began producing high-quality Swiss watches, for both for ladies and gents, but with a more accessible price point. By 1932, the first Tudor watches were on the market, some of which even included the Rolex name to help bolster Tudor’s reputation. By 1936, Hans Wilsdorf was so impressed with Tudor’s developments that he acquired the full rights to the Tudor moniker and, as a marketing man, added the famous ‘Tudor Rose’ emblem, a nod to the ‘Royal House of Tudor’. However, it was only after the end of the second world war that Tudor became an entity in its own right. On 6th March 1946, Hans Wilsdorf set up a new company, ‘Montres Tudor SA’ and even though Rolex continued to play a large part in Tudor’s manufacturing and distribution, it was from this point on that Tudor established their own clear brand identity, speaking very much to the aspirational working man.

Tudor Models, The Beginnings

From the beginning, the names of the Tudor models were identical to that of Rolex – Oyster, Prince and Submariner, as were the cases and bracelets. However, the movements were outsourced to help keep prices lower.

Always committed to creating highly durable products that would stand the test of time, even in some of the models from the late ‘40s, there was a surprising amount of technology involved in the design and assembly. An Oyster 4463 from 1947 had, what were classic proportions of that time, a 34mm face with a waterproof case, luminous hour and minute hands, whilst the second hand was coloured red for better visibility. The mechanical movement even had an anti-shock system.

The launch of the self-winding Tudor Oyster Prince in 1952 was backed by a unique advertising campaign. Described as a ‘Trial of Destruction’ the campaign told the story of how the watch proved its durability. From being worn for over 1,000 miles of merciless vibration in the Monaco International Trophy for motorcycles, to being worn whilst operating over a million blows of a pneumatic drill. The watch “emerged unharmed and working perfectly”. So impressed was Hans Wilsdorf that he declared: “I have decided that the Tudor Prince deserves to share with Rolex two advantages I would allow no other watch to use – the famous and unique waterproof Oyster case and the original self-winding Perpetual ’rotor’ mechanism. All Tudor Oyster Princes will have these two exceptional features, previously exclusive to Rolex. This indicates, I think, the measure of our faith in the new watch. I am proud to give my personal endorsement”.

These days the Tudor name is synonymous with diving watches, which is no wonder considering they’ve been producing top quality models since they introduced the very first Prince Submariner model in 1954. Over the following ten years, Tudor brought six new divers watches to the market.

Another first came in 1957, with the launch of the Advisor, Tudor’s one and only wristwatch with an alarm function. Produced until 1977, there were three different designs. A modernised relaunch of this classic model came out in 2011 with a stylish 42mm face, as opposed to the much smaller 34mm of the original designs.

A noticeable change in the 1960’s saw the shield logo replace the rose emblem; a further symbol to the robustness of Tudor watches. However, the rose was later reintroduced in 2013, with the crown and shield now both being present as a nod to Tudor’s elegance and strength.

Tudor Military History

The undoubted robustness of Tudor watches was reflected in the brand’s military associations, and the Tudor Submariners became standard issue for the elite forces of the French Navy, otherwise known as the Marine Nationale, as well as the US Navy SEAL special forces, amongst others. Remarkably, the watches supplied were not specially modified; they were the same models that were available to the public, with just an engraving to recognise the profession of the wearer.

The Submariner had a significant design overhaul in 1969, and over the next 30 years some 20 different models were introduced. There were many changes, including directional bezels with notching and ETA self-winding mechanisms, but without doubt, the most iconic change was to the hands. In response to a request from French Navy divers who asked for even greater visibility and luminosity underwater, the newly designed hands quickly and widely became known as ‘Snowflakes’, due to their unusual, square-tipped hands. These highly collectable vintage timepieces are now some of the most sought-after in the world. Much loved and steeped in history, many believe that the Tudor Submariner is poised for a return.

Tudor Relaunch

By the end of the 1990s and early 2000s, Tudor had somewhat lost its way and withdrew from the UK and American markets for a while. But in 2013, new life was breathed into the brand, and by celebrating its rich history, Tudor has seen spectacular success. Refreshed and refocussed, Tudor returned with the perfect proposition for the modern day, value-driven watch enthusiasts. Few brands manage to combine vintage flair with contemporary style as seamlessly as Tudor, and with their accessible price point and unquestionable craftsmanship, the revitalised Tudor brand has since become one of the most sought-after names in luxury watches.

In recent years, the appreciation and demand for vintage style watches has grown enormously. Whilst many brands were slow to recognise this demand, with such classic designs to relaunch Tudor was perfectly poised to reap the benefits. Most modern Tudor watches draw cues from their classic designs, but with larger cases, top-quality in-house movements and cutting edge materials. For example, the Black Bay and the Pelagos range, both true modern classics, have their design rooted in over 40 years of stunning diving and sports timepieces. The Black Bay 58, for example, is a tribute to the exceptional 1958 Submariner 7924 model that became known as ‘Big Crown’. The Black Bay 32, 36 & 41 models are elegant sports timepieces that encapsulate heritage with innovative manufacturing and materials, such as hairsprings made from silicon.

The 1926 range is a nod to Tudor’s very early history, albeit with a more modern 41mm face diameter and a self-winding, mechanical movement. Whereas the ladies’ range of Clair De Rose models celebrates the classic design of a by-gone era.

How Much Does A Tudor Watch Cost?

In the world of handcrafted luxury Swiss watches, Tudor is very much considered an accessible brand that offers real value for money. With models at Ernest Jones ranging from £1420 to £5240, Tudor is an attainable luxury watch brand.

At Ernest Jones, we believe in making your experience as enjoyable and stress-free as possible, so if you’d prefer not to cover the whole cost upfront, we offer an Interest-Free Credit option with manageable monthly payments.

Choosing The Right Tudor For You

Whether you are a lover of vintage styling with a modern twist, or you are simply looking for a timepiece of exceptional quality, Tudor watches are great all-rounders.

With so many stylish designs to choose from, picking the perfect Tudor watch for you or your loved one can be a challenge. For tips on finding the right piece for you, see our watch buying guide, or shop our stunning range of Tudor watches online today. Alternatively, book an in-store or virtual appointment with one of our dedicated experts who’ll be happy to show you the range, answer any questions and help you narrow down your options.