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8TH JANUARY 2024 | SCOTT GIBSON - WATCH SPECIALIST WRITER
For most of its history, Rado has been a watchmaker dedicated to advancing the design and materials used in timepieces. The pioneering use of ceramics and sapphire, as well as a dedication to wearer comfort in its designs, have helped shape the distinctive look of the brand over the years. The latest release is a case in point. Imagine a classic Rado that captures the essence of the brand and distills it into an almost pure watchmaking vision.
The watch in question is the Anatom, which celebrated its 40th anniversary in 2023. For a large part of those 40 years, the Anatom has been on hiatus, with other Rado watches instead following in its footsteps. The Anatom concept has become integral to almost all of Rado’s collection, with design elements from the 1983 original making their way into multiple other watches in the Rado catalogue. It’s safe to say that the Rado of today would not be the same without the pioneering design first seen in the Anatom.
Unlike a lot of watches that are re-released in later years though, this isn’t just a homage of the original. This new Anatom honours the original and uses the design as a jumping off point, making some significant changes to the original formula that are more in keeping with the brand’s modern vision. The 1983 Anatom was an all-steel affair, with some models using gold plating to add some glamour. The 2023 model adds Rado's signature ceramics into the mix, as well as a switch towards the black colour palette this brings with it. Also modernised are the proportions, with the 32.5mm width adding a more notable wrist presence than the original 28mm does.
What’s instantly recognisable from the original? The shape and design of the Anatom’s square case. The straight lines make way for more curved lines in the side profile, which reveals the real trick of the Anatom case. The whole watch gets its name from the case design, which is made to fit naturally on the curve of the wrist. This anatomical design necessitated the design and use of a convex sapphire crystal to keep the shape uniform across the whole profile of the watch. When worn, the shaping allows the watch to perfectly hug the wearer’s wrist for ultimate comfort. It also gives the Anatom a unique appearance from almost every angle. The case itself is made up of three components: sapphire crystal and Rado’s signature matte ceramic for the upper case, a case middle made from matte black PVD-coated steel and the exhibition caseback being steel with a sapphire crystal to give a view of the beating heart of the Anatom.
Where the original featured a quartz movement, the workings of the modern Anatom comes in the form of the Calibre R766 automatic movement. This 21-jewel movement has a 72-hour power reserve and comes covered by Rado's recently introduced five year warranty. As an automatic watch, the reimagined Anatom features the trademark Rado anchor on its dial to denote it as an automatic. Set onto a red jewel bearing, the anchor can move on its axis as the watch moves, mimicking the rotor of the movement that powers the watch.
To build on the extreme comfort of the case shape, another major change comes in the choice of strap. A rubber strap is used in the latest Anatom, instead of the steel bracelet of the 1983 model. The highly flexible rubber is soft and supple against the wrist and helps keep the weight of the whole watch down. The single fold clasp helps keep the strap in peak condition for longer, cutting down on the need for keepers as the excess strap folds neatly under the clasp. It also takes out the strain of opening and closing a conventional pin buckle strap, which wears a strap quicker.
While the majority of the watch is realised in a black colour palette, the dial of the Anatom features a pop of colour to stand out. Three colours are available, Blue, Green, or Cognac, with a vibrant metallic finish to the colour that plays with the light. Each colour fades to black as it reaches the edges of the dial, drawing your eyes to the centre where the colours are at their most lively. Tucked in neatly at 6 o’clock is a date window that just catches the edge of the colours of the dial. The angular markers and simple handset are given a coating of superluminova for low light visibility and are perfectly in keeping with the minimalistic appearance of the rest of the watch.
The Anatom is a prime example of how re-releases should be done. Instead of just bringing back a classic timepiece with minimal design alterations, Rado has taken a concept and applied its modern philosophies to create something new and unique. This watch is a Rado through and through, with inspiration coming from the past but with a contemporary redesign that captures the brand’s signature style.
Need some help deciding what colour of Rado Anatom to go for? Our experts are always on hand to discuss. Book an appointment in-store or online today.